Crickets: loud, pesky and a hearty snack
A humble arthropod, with legs for days and impressive singing chops, is proving lucrative for one of Wairarapa’s long-running food producers. By Erin Kavanagh-Hall.
In February 2019, Breadcraft, based in Masterton since 1943, announced its new brand, The Rebel Bakehouse - wraps made with flours from high protein sources, such as hemp seed, spinach, purple corn and roasted crickets.
The wraps hit the shelves in supermarkets nationwide, greeted by a curious yet cautious public. Surely crickets, known for chomping through pastures and chirping relentlessly, do not belong on a dinner plate?
But consumers grew accustomed to their nutty flavour, and marvelled at their myriad vitamins and minerals. Almost one year, thousands of units sold, several business awards, and one major research grant later, it’s safe to say The Rebel Bakehouse is on to something.
In the process, Breadcraft has created its own sustainable farming operation: growing its own produce - thousands of New Zealand black field crickets, destined for the flour mill - in an on-site container.
In New Zealand, cricket flour is “new and exciting” but, says Masterton farmer John Hart, we’re lagging behind the rest of the world.
“A UN survey found two billion people throughout the world consider insects a normal food source. In Mexico, people will eat a cone of roasted crickets in a restaurant, with guacamole. In Cambodia, giant crickets are a street delicacy.
“It’s been great to see people come around to crickets – people are ready to try new things.”
Breadcraft’s sales manager Chris Peterson says The Rebel Bakehouse arose from a desire to diversify.
“We’d noticed people are becoming more health conscious and interested in sustainable, socially-responsible sources – we wanted to tap into that.”
Chris and his team focused on crickets– high in protein, calcium and vitamin B12, containing essential amino acids, and more iron than spinach. Breadcraft initially imported powdered crickets from Canada but John ordered a small parcel of crickets from a contact in Martinborough, procured a 40ft shipping container and some large tubs, and scoured YouTube for advice.
Breadcraft makes its own feed, using surplus bread, and Wairarapa’s first large-scale cricket farming programme was born.
“Cricket farming is more sustainable than pastoral farming when it comes to resources. It requires a fraction of the water needed. Plus, crickets metabolise their food into protein right away, so you produce more protein per hectare.
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Breadcraft’s innovation has won them praise nationwide – securing nominations at the Sustainable Business Network Awards and the Gold Awards, and a win at the 2019 Wairarapa Business Awards.
The Rebel Bakehouse has also received a grant from Callaghan Innovation to further investigate the nutritional benefits of crickets, particularly looking at a protein in their exoskeleton which can improve gut health.
Plus, the Bakehouse crew are looking at developing a line of roasted crickets as finger food, which has garnered a positive response at food shows.
“People don’t expect to like them - but they find the crickets actually taste like roast hazelnuts. With the texture of a rice cake,” Chris says.
MORE INFORMATION:
You can buy The Rebel Bakehouse wraps nationwide. For recipe ideas, check out their website. We particularly liked the sound of the Lamb with Cumin Yoghurt Dressing served in a Cricket Flour Wrap.
