There’s something about cycling that seems to fit perfectly with the zeitgeist of the early 2020s – zero emissions, abundant health benefits, and affordability. It’s now also perfectly valid to be travelling at 10-20 km/hr not wearing head-to-toe Lycra! By Anne Taylor.

Hotels used as hospitals, thriving orchards and frequent catastrophic fires… these are some of the stories uncovered by volunteers while they’ve been developing two cycle routes for the town. The shorter route (9km) centres on the town, while a 22km-route extends to the outer reaches of Kuratāwhiti and Jellicoe Streets, Kempton’s Line and Pah Rd, home of Pāpāwai Marae (one of the most important marae in New Zealand due to the Kotahitanga or Māori parliament movement here in the 1890s).

The Heritage Cycling Route is the brainchild of the Greytown Heritage Trust, established in 1994 to advocate for and preserve the unique history of New Zealand’s first planned inland town. It evolved from their successful walking route around the town centre: “Never a day goes by that I don’t see people reading the signs in Main Street,” says former Trust Chair David Catty.

There are now over 40 information signs throughout Greytown, many illustrated, highlighting historic buildings, sites and other features. The signs have become an ongoing initiative for the Trust, with no shortage of further stories to be told. And the growing popularity of cycling, with options such as the Greytown-Woodside Trail and the recently approved extension to Featherston underway, mean that a heritage cycle route for Greytown was a logical step.

From the outset, residents and owners had to be on board. “Some property owners were so keen that they did their own research,” says current Trust Chair Vivienne O’Reilly, “but generally volunteers worked with Wairarapa Archive and found information from books and online resources, then shared this with owners.” Papers Past, a free online record of all New Zealand print publications up to the 1950s, proved invaluable. Careful fact-checking followed so the process of developing each sign was quite arduous but locals quickly embraced the project. “I haven’t had anyone who was not supportive of it, from home owners to South Wairarapa Rotary, the Council and the local printers, nothing was too much bother,” says Vivienne. Trust committee members Gina Jones and Frank Minehan also put in many hours, devising the frame design for the map at Cotter St, and proofreading materials.

Each sign has a QR code linking users to either the walking route or the new cycling route maps, so all routes are self-guided. One of the stories unearthed was about 6 Wood St, which has had past lives as a shop, dental practice and private home. It’s believed that the ashes of the first St Luke’s Church (destroyed by fire in the first half of the 20th century) were scattered in the garden. The interior is quirkily paneled with recycled wood, the legacy of a former owner.

Other features worthy of mention emerged, such as original totara fences, and the tree avenue on Hospital Road. Stella Bull Park, which still boasts a heritage lemon tree and is now a community orchard, was the perfect place to highlight the large orchards that once dominated Greytown’s landscape. Annabelle O’Meara, who has served on both the Trust and Cobblestones committees, developed the new sign now located in the Park. The local fruit industry kickstarted when Walter Tate purchased 40 acres of land in Kuratāwhiti St in 1899.

Recent development, including the conversion of Murphy’s Orchard, means it is difficult to find examples of Greytown's orcharding past, another reason why preserving its history is so important. “In some ways I don’t want Greytown to grow too much as I would hate to see these things lost,” says Vivienne. One of her favourite aspects are the quiet lanes and avenues dating back to the first European farmers. It’s easy to imagine a horse drawn cart meandering along in these peaceful spaces. David Catty agrees there is a “fine balance” to be struck between Greytown’s economic progress and maintaining its cultural heritage: “We don’t want to throw the baby out with the bathwater!” he says.

Take it slow

The Cycling Route is perhaps best done at about pennyfarthing speed, allowing time to take in the stories and soak up the atmosphere. Heritage Cycling Route and Heritage Walk leaflets are available at the Town Centre i-SITE and Cobblestones Museum. A sign showing the complete Cycling Route has been installed at the start of the Greytown-Woodside Trail in Cotter St, and there is a map of the Greytown Heritage Walk outside the South Wairarapa Working Men’s Club, 120 Main St.

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